Walk Through The Tundra

Today started out as a beautiful sunny day. The first in over two weeks. It was the perfect day for a butterfly survey. So Craig, one of my partners, and I went to Lake Camp to do the annual butterfly survey. To do the survey we would have to walk through the tundra. I have read lots of information on the tundra and in the readings they all talk about how slow movement is in the tundra. They were not kidding.

The tundra is not a smooth, flat area. It is a bumpy and mushy and full of surprises. I would think I was stepping on solid ground only to find that the ground was mush. I stepped and sunk up to my knees in the Tundra. You would think that you could take a simple step forward but the ground was unpredictable. I stepped on a mound and it had to be floating on a packet of air because as I stepped on it I heard a big whoosh of air. As the air released the mound I was standing on sunk. Underneath the ground is water. I now understand why you can't move very fast in the Tundra but walking slowly through it you notice wonderful surprises.

The moss and lichens and other plants are a wide variety of colors. There are oranges, yellows, and reds and in between varieties of white. It was beautiful. Then I discovered crowberries. They are small and black. I heard that you either like them or you don't, there is no in between. I tried one. To me they were a little on the sour side but I liked them. Then we found some blueberries and they were fantastic better than anything you could buy in a grocery store. If you could go to a real grocery store. The ground was also covered with cranberries but they can't be picked until a couple of night of frost. They were the good surprises lying on the ground.

The bad surprises were the bugs. This is the area that you really need a bug shirt and hood. I never saw so many bugs. They were thick. You looked down on your pants and you were covered with hundreds of little bugs. They got under my glasses as I did not have a bug net on. They buzzed in my ear and if you opened your mouth too long you were treated with a bug going down your throat. I can understand perfectly why the caribou love the tundra as their favorite food is lichen and there is plenty. I also understand why they move constantly because you can not stand still because of the bugs. What a wonderful day, good and bad.

The Stray Returns

So Craig and I went to the post office and who should we meet when we are just about there? The stray dog that followed me home a week or so ago. It was the same airdale dog. We went into the building and checked our mailbox which was empty, then went back outside for the walk home. The airdale was not is sight so we started on our way.

We noticed that the stray was ahead of us on the trail then it disappeared in the tall grass next to the trail. Both of us were keeping our eyes on the area where it went in the grass but we could not see it. Then I felt a nose push against my back. Somehow the loveable stray had got behind us. He looked up at us like follow me I know how to get to your house. And he ran up ahead and took the lead.

It is not the brightest dog as it kept trying to walk on the highway instead of the trail. I didn't want the dog to get hit by a passing vehicle so every time a car came we called it over to us. The we had to cross the King Salmon Creek bridge. The dumb stray walked right down the center of the road which does not have enough space for cars, walkers and strays walking in the middle of the bridge. We tried to call the dog over to us but it was no good. Then he got the smell of something and ran up ahead off of the bridge. Craig and I decided that we would take the trail that goes around the back of our house to try and loose the stray.

A few minutes went by and no stray. We thought we were in the clear. But we were wrong. No sooner had we thought we had lost him when he showed up carrying some paper in its mouth. It lead the way to the street towards our house when the neighbors passed us in their car. Lucky for us the stray followed them. I guess it thought we could handle the rest of the walk home. Then a beat up green pick up truck drove past us and the driver waved. We waved back. This is common in King Salmon as everyone is so friendly. You wave to everyone as you pass whether you know them or not.

We started talking about how the neighbors got stuck with the stray when the green pick up passed us again and this time in the back of the pick up was the airdale. He just looked at us and smiled. I guess we know now he is not a stray and his owner must be use to him following mail patrons home. We both started laughing.

Where Is The Sun?

For the past two weeks we have had rain. Some days it has been a light rain and a couple of days we were wondering if we should build an ark. Today when I woke up there were actual patches of blue sky. Then they disappeared. It did not rain today but in the morning there was no sun, just clouds. In the afternoon we saw quick, and I mean quick, patches of sunlight. The office manager emailed her daughter to tell her she saw her shadow but by the time she typed the message the sun had disappeared. Another coworker yelled "the sun" but by the time everyone looked up it was gone. She did explain to all of us for the 30 seconds it was out if felt good on her face.

I need to do a butterfly survey. To see butterflies you kind of need the sun. Especially here where the temperatures hardly reaches above 60. Everytime I heard someone mention the sun I would run to the window and look hoping it would clear up enough to go run the survey. Not today. Now it is 9 pm and of course the sun is shining. I think the sun has a sense of humor only I am not laughing.

Fireweed Jelly

All over the place the fireweed is blooming. It is a tall plant with bright pink blossoms. I was told today that it was time to make fireweed jelly. I haven't figured out how to make jelly from a plant that I see has no berries. Then I was told that the jelly is made from the flowers. So as I was walking home I kept studying how they make jelly from the flowers and what it tastes like as I don't really smell a fragrance from the plant and I am not sure how a flower petal can make juice for jelly. I am use to make things like strawberry, peach and grape jelly. Never tried to make jelly from a flower before but I am suppose to be getting the recipe so I can try it. It should be a matter of time before the berries are ripe enough to pick. I am kind of excited about that. I can't wait to try the different kinds of berries. But if fireweed makes good jelly like other berries why aren't the bears eating the fireweed plants? I will let you know what I find out.

My Vehicle of Choice

I live in King Salmon Alaska. I have no car, no ATV and no bike. I don't miss having a car at all. I don't miss long lines at the gas station or pumpimg gas on cold icy days. I don't miss long drives to visit relatives or how it is just easier to drive my car to the store. I don't even think about anymore. I don't worry about how many miles it is to see something as if you can't walk there here you need a plane anyways.

I have found that my life now revolves around airplanes. I find myself looking up visibilities and ceiling levels. Will the fog shut down the airport so the mail plane can't get here today. Are the float planes flying because if they aren't I may not get to Brooks Camp. Or Aniakchak or back home.

Today the big talk in the office was the fact that flights from King Salmon to Anchorage had dropped $60 one way. Normally, it cost $200 to fly to Anchorage. Right now the cost is $138. Everyone was talking about it. They were trying to make holiday plans and when to go to town to shop. They were trying to figure out how many tickets to buy and for when. I found myself doing the same. Can I book a flight to go back to the states to visit? I looked it up $300 cheaper right now. My life has become controlled by airways instead of highways.

Breakfast with the Newborns

This morning I was very tired. I had worked 12 hours shifts the last two days and in the rain. I was a little slow getting going. When I sat down to breakfast I looked out the window and there was 402 and the two cubs. They were munching on grass in the yard. I quickly ran and got my camera. Mom and cubs were starting to walk away but I snapped a couple of shots but they weren't turning out well and by the time I got things in working order the bears were gone. I was so frustrated with myself. I thought I would never get a chance like that again and I sat down to eat my oatmeal.

All of the sudden the little family was back. This time I took my time and concentrated. I got shots of the cubs climbing up the hill behind Mom into the yard. 402 decided for breakfast she needed some fiber and came and chewed on one of the logs of the cabin. The cubs tried to copy her but didn't have the teeth for the job yet. Next to the cabin is the emergency boat on a trailer. Mom walked by it but the cubs stood up on their hind legs and tried to take a look and checked out the motor. By the time the family moved on I was running late for work, my oatmeal was cold but I was in a much better mood. I am totally hooked on these bears.

Ted the Bear That Begs

We have a bear at Brooks camp named Ted. Ted is a rather good size male bear. He can fish pretty well for himself when he wants to but he would rather have other people fish for him. It is really pathetic that this massive bear acts the ways he does. At the falls tonight, Ted was at one end and 747 another good size male was at the other end. 747 caught a fish and Ted left his place at the falls and moved over by 747. He bent down low to the water and moved rather close to 747. Then he started to whine. He made moaning sounds that were rather embarassing for a bear his size. He begged and begged for a part of 747's catch. 747 on the other hand enjoyed his fish. He paid little attention to Ted who was just inches from him whining up a storm. When 747 had ate most of the good parts of the fish he let the rest of the fish fall into the water then move back to his fishing spot. Ted then grabbed the leftovers and chowed down. Once that was done he moved back to his spot at the falls and tried to catch his own fish.

747 caught another fish and Ted again moved next to 747 and began the begging routine. It was beginning to be funny the way this big bear who could possibly take on 747 and win was comfortable in begging for food. He probably could have fought for the fish and won but he never tried that tactic. What little was left of the fish after 747 was finished did not have many calories to give Ted much wieght gain.

A third time 747 caught a fish and Ted moved in to beg. This time a younger bear moved closer to see if he too could get some scraps of fish from 747. He slowly moved closer and closer. Ted kept his eyes on the new bear while begging for scraps from 747. Then when the new bear was too close for Ted's comfort Ted ran over and attacked the new bear. The two bears were on their hind legs clawing and biting at each other. Ted's growls had turned into some serious threatening sounds. After a few minutes of fighting the new bear backed down and moved down river. Ted however, went back to 747 and began begging again. It was a sad thing to watch.