Day One in Anchorage

I flew into Anchorage yesterday on a plane that had mostly government employees heading into town for meetings and trainings.  It was the roughest plane ride I have been on to date.  The descent into town, rocked and rolled and bounced the little plane all over the place.  The guy behind me said when we touched the ground said he needed a beer.  I was just thankful to be on the ground.

I asked Craig what he wanted to do first after renting our car and checking into the hotel.  He chose going to a bookstore.  So off we went to the rental car service.  We are driving a chevy malibou and it sucks.  The roads are snow covered and mostly glare ice, so when I try to stop the car the anti lock brakes kick in and we slide all over the place.  I hate anti lock brakes.  We found our hotel.  We are on the 12th floor with a few of the ocean.  Not a pretty view, we get to see the freight docks, but the town is surrounded by beautiful snow covered mountains. 

We were off to look for a bookstore.  We knew Anchorage had a Barnes and Noble but it took us two hours to find it.  While searching we stopped at a mall where we had salespeople try to stop us and show us their wares.  Both of us looked at each other and said "Don't miss that."  Next we stopped at a Walmart.  We got to the dairy case and milk was a $1.99 a gallone.  We just sat and stared as it is $11.00 in King Salmon.  On through the grocery isles we went amazed at the low prices and then we saw the ice cream all.  A whole isle with nothing but ice cream.  WOW!

Finally we found the store we were looking for.  It was as good as I remembered.  But my first overall impression of Anchorage is "not impressed".  May be today will be different but I have eight hours of meetings to attend before I can do any more exploring.  But I do miss the quiet and peacefulness of my little bush village.

What the Women of King Salmon Do During the Winter.

Yesterday I was invited to a Stamp It Up party.  For those of you that don't know, it is a party where you can buy all the things you will need to make your own greeting cards.  This is a huge thing here.  The women get together eat and make cards.  We all got to make a Christmas card yesterday, ate vegetarian lasagna and cheese cake and did a lot of talking.  I was told about all the fun things that you can do to make your own cards.  There is another party in two weeks and the Saturday after thanksgiving there is a card making bonanza day where for just $15 you can make 10 cards.  This is suppose to be great fun.  So I ordered my first $35 worth of card making supplies and it will arrive at my office within a week.  Would I like to host a party.  Seems like this might get to be an expensive endeavor.

Today I am off to Anchorage.  Not sure I am ready for the big city.  I like being away from the hustle and bustle and the simple life here.  I am however hungry for ice cream and a trip through the stores.  I will also get to see my husband which will be fantastic.  Then I am going to see if the stories are true, is Anchorage where you go to see a moose?  So don't worry I am sure there are adventures in Anchorage besides eating ice cream and looking for a place to park the rental car.

Their Tracks Are Everywhere!

Yesterday we got snow.  Enough snow that it covered the ground, trees and bushes.  On the walk home from work I decided to take the trail through the woods.  I haven't seen a hare anywhere for weeks.  But there in the snow were tracks of a hare.  Then more tracks and more tracks.  They were everywhere.  With each new set of tracks I tried to see if I could find one as they will be turning white for the winter and I would love to see them in the new coats.  But I could not find one but someone did or should I say something.  Next to a set of hare tracks were a set of lynx tracks.  Both tracks looked as if both creatures were running.  They lead into a thick area of alder which I decided not to go into.  That would be a place you just might walk into a sleeping bear.  One of the neighbors had one in her front yard a couple of days ago.  So some of them are still around. 

The snow made the area shine and sparkle.  But like all good things it came to an end.  The temperature warmed up and the rain fell, melting away all the beautiful snow.  It was sad.  But today I am getting ready for my first trip into town.  I am making my shopping list and trying to decide what to take with me to carry food home in.  I am totally excited.

A Walk in the Dark

Yesterday I gathered my gear and headed out the door.  The sky was dark.  It was littered with a thousand of stars.  All the light I had to see to walk by were the stars and my amazing flashlight.  I started down the road.  It was quiet.  There was no breeze whistling through the trees.  I walked on just thinking to myself.  Then I heard it.  A sound coming from the tree tops.  I turned my flashlight towards the tops of the trees but I saw nothing.  I started to walk again when I heard the sound.  I searched again this time more thoroughly but still I saw nothing.  The beam of my flashlight showed only empty branches.  I moved at a slower pace but kept my eyes searching.  Then there it was again only this time it was answered by another.  Again I stopped and searched the trees.  I could hear the calls more frequently now but still I could not find the creature making them.  Their voices echoing through the stillness.  I continued on my way and as I walked more voices cried out into the night, first three called, then four, and then I heard the call of six different creatures.  They were all around me but I could not see a single one.  As I got closer to the creek the calls became more distant.  I heard one last Whoo- hooo-hooo.  The calls came from Great Horned Owls calling as I walked.  Was I walking through the woods?  Nope!  Just on the highway going to work.

Amazing Citizen Scientists

When I arrived at Brooks Camp for my first official week as the biologist I discovered a long lost program where we asked visitors to document bird and animal sightings in the park during their visit.  This isn't just for the visitors.  It is also for the staff members as they travel the park.  With 4.1 million acres I can't be everywhere at once.  I have yet to see over half the park.  This program gives me a chance to see what others are seeing.

Today I spent the day writing the end of season report on the project.  I learned some interesting things.  for instance a lot of our visitors may come to see the bears but they also do some birding as there were 287 sightings of birds.  A few of the birds were rare findings in the park which is fantastic.  One species of duck, Garganey has only been seen in what is marked as accidental.  That means you might see one every fifty years.  We saw four of them in the spring.  Another species, the black-backed woodpecker isn't even on the area species list.  We saw three this year on the falls trail.  Next year I will have to see if their nesting here.  Speaking of nesting, we found out that there is a nest of golden-crowned kinglets in Brooks Camp.  Another first as no one knew their were nesting here.

Reports show wolves located in nine different areas of the park.  How many packs are out there?  In 1912 Novarupta blew leaving hundreds of feet of ash.  Next year will be the 100th anniversary of the eruption.  Needless to say that the wildlife are not numerous out there.  But life is returning and for the first time two different people saw a hare at Novarupta.  We would have never realized that with out our citizen scientist. 

I am hoping to expand the program next year as it was such a success this year.  So if your planning a visit to Katmai National Park in the future.  Stop at the visitors desk and tell them you want to help me out and be a wildlife observationalist.  All you have to do is take your form along with you and fill it out as you visit the park.  If you were one of the very helpful people this year.  You are terrific and thank you very much.

Crazy Weather

Yesterday was one crazy day of weather.  It started out as a heavy rain.  I had bundled all up for the walk to work and was thinking this is one day when I wish I had a car but then my neighbors pulled up and I decided to op for the ride.  Once at work in my cubicle, I don't have a window so the weather isn't much of a thought but at 10 am I went to the kitchen to fill my water bottle and was surprised that it was still dark outside.  A little while later one of my coworkers yelled it snowing.  I jumped right up to see the sight.  There were very large flakes of snow swirling around in circles.  It was beautiful.  I could have watched all day but I had work to do.  Every so often I would think of some reason to find a window.  I love the snow and was beginning to worry that my husband in North Dakota was going to get measurable snow before we did. 

By the afternoon the weather was right on the border of rain and snow.  I was hoping for a snow shower to walk home in but I got rain.  And wind.  The wind was howling through the trees and my cheeks got very cold.  We had gotten a lot of rain as there were large puddles everywhere.  A couple hours after arriving back to my warm house the rain again turned to snow.  I sat on the couch and watched for awhile.  Then it stopped.  In the western part of the sky, the sky was lit bright orange.  It was amazing.  It just glowed.  Then as time went by it turned pink and then faded into night.  It was so totally different than a normal sunset.  It gave everything a golden glow.  It was an amazing day of weather.

Raptor Research

Now that the field season is over it is time to work on data and decide what things to look at in the future.  I have a few ideas that I am studying and going to write proposals for.  One thing I would like to see done is a raptor study on the coastline of Katmai National Park.  The peregrine falcon being one of those raptors.  There has not been too much work done in this field.  In 1993 there was a study that looked at the peregrine falcon.  In 1989 the exxon oil spill occurred and people always here about Prince William Sound being hit hard, what they don't know is that the Katmai Coast got most of the oil.  But being the Katmai coast is hard to get to, it did not get much attention.  Today there are still traces of that oil spill on the coastline.

After the oil spill, raptor studies were performed above and below Katmai but no one looked at our coast.  I would like to get some kind of baseline on our raptors before another big incident happens so that we will know where things stand.  Peregrines, the bird of focus of discussion today, eat sea birds.  The coast line has many seabirds so we should be able to find peregrines on our coast.  In the 1993 study only one peregrine falcon was seen.  Was this from the oil spill?  No one knows but I hope to see what our coastline has now. 

A raptor study of a rocky coast would consist of helicopter surveys, and time on a boat traveling parallel to the coast looking for eyrie, the name given to a raptor nest.  Doing this kind of survey will take money so I have asked the avian person at the US Fish and Wildlife Office to team up with me. She is all excited.  So next step write the proposal.  It may not be exciting now but if we get the funding it will make the next field season pretty exciting.

Preparing To Go To Town

On the 30th I get to go to town for the first time in 6 months.  I am getting quite excited.  Town, for those of you that don't know, is Anchorage.  To get there I have to get on a plane and fly 1 1/2 hours.  It will be the first time in 6 months that I will have been in a grocery store or seen a busy street.  I have a car reserved and I drive a car about once a week here and it is to take the work truck up to the post office for the mail.  Total mileage 1.  I am going to a Natural Resource Training for two days and then presenting some of my work at a science symposium.  Scientists from around the state will be presenting the work they have been doing.  It should be quite interesting.  To make the trip extra special my husband is flying up from North Dakota to be here to support me.  The game plan is to attend the meetings during the day, explore Anchorage until it is too dark to see and then go shopping.

The first place I want to go is Dairy Queen for a pumpkin pie blizzard.  Not all of you may know what that is so I will describe it.  It is ice cream mixed with chopped of pieces of pumpkin pie topped with whip cream and sprinkled with nutmeg.  It is a holiday favorite of mine and since ice cream cost $14.00 a half gallon and I am too cheap to buy it.  I am looking forward to having one and savoring every delicious bite.

I am looking forward to walking through a grocery store especially the fresh produce section.  Seeing a real dairy section with a large selection of cheeses.  I am going to enjoy going to the fabric store, and a book store, and maybe even Best Buy.  I hear Taco Bells calling me and a McDonald's cheese burger sounds great.  All these places I haven't even seen a commercial for. 

Of course I am looking forward to seeing Anchorage.  I here the museums are great.  I want to walk the trails by the ocean and see what I can see.  Moose should be everywhere from what I hear so seeing one would be awesome even if it is not a Katmai moose.  There is a musk ox farm outside of town I might have to check out and I hear the views of Denali are great just outside of town.  All these things wait for me at the end of the week.  I can't wait.  What would you do if you were to go to town with me after six months in the bush?   

Where Are the Salmon?

So Friday I went to Brooks Camp.  After our long boat ride, we went to the falls as the main reason for going was to show the Game and Fish Representative our fish ladder at the falls.  We got to the falls platform and a nice size male was eating fish remains and grass.  We looked into the river and for the first time since the salmon arrived at Brooks Falls back in early July I could not see any salmon in the river.  I had been there all most two weeks ago and there were still a fair amount of fish in the water but no more.

After a few minutes of waiting bear number one was joined by bear number two.  Two males about the same size who with their enormous bellies tried to sense each other out.  They hefted their weight and circled around each other but then decided that neither was worth the energy to fight and both headed in their own direction.  After examining the fish ladder it was down to the riffles to see if there were any fish or bears.  At first neither were there.  Then we managed to count about five salmon and with the five salmon came Backpack.  He chased one of the fish around in the water until finally catching it.  We watched as he devoured his meal then left to search for more.  So far all the bears we had seen were three males. 

There must have been a wind storm at the park since everyone left as there were a couple of down trees across the path.  Otherwise, Brooks Camp was pretty quiet.  We stopped to have lunch in the snack shack which is a little building where staff can have lunch safe from bears.  It is half way between the lower platform and the falls trail.  As we sat and ate our lunch 284 walked by.  I watched and said hi 284.  She stopped and looked at me then continued on through the woods away from the river.  It was the last time I will see her before she dens for the winter.  I am hoping she has a good sleep.

After lunch it was on to the lower platform.  Again we saw no salmon in the water.  Because there are no salmon the bears using the river have dropped tremendously.  Holly and Flo, two of our largest females, were trying to find some fish and another male was up river.  410 was asleep on the beach.  That was it for the bears.  With the bridge gone for the winter I could not cross to see who was sleeping in camp.  I did not see 402 and her cub or Tundra.  Both favorites of mine.  I am assuming that they are munching berries on the way to the denning area.  Finally it was time to leave.  I did not get the big farewell like I received two weeks ago.  We just slipped away virtually unnoticed.  No fish and a few bears.  Sleep tight everyone and see you in the spring.

Rough Ride Across the Lake

Yesterday I took the boat out to Brooks Camp.  Usually the ride out is about an hour.  Yesterday was quite different.  It started out beautiful.  The sun was just about to rise and the sky was full of beautiful colors.  It was a little windy but all in all it looked like a great day for a boat ride.  Off we started across Naknek Lake.
Naknek lake got its name from the earliest Russian explorers.  It is 40 miles long and can be anywhere between three and eight miles wide.  It normally takes just over an hour to cross it to get to Brooks Camp on the other end.  Yesterday our little journey over the water out there took two and half hours. 

Once we got into the main part of the lake the wind began to pick up.  We started to bounce on the waves.  Then it got rough.  We hit the trench of one way very hard and water poured over the bow of the boat.  Up till this time me and two coworkers were sitting on the floor in the bow area.  When the first wave splashed over the top we quickly moved to the back of the boat.  Wave after wave washed over the top of the bow as we bounced and rocked.  Then we hit the bottom of a trough so hard that the engine stopped.  That's when we were not only rocking from front to back but side to side.  I felt like I was on one of those boats you see on TV on the roughest water.  I wasn't scared but the fact that you are 10 times more likely to drown in Alaska did run through my mind. 

We got the boat started again and slowly headed to Brooks Camp.  Bounce after bounce.  Waves of water higher than the boat passed by.  On the average the average the waves were five feet high.  Two hours passed by and finally the shore line of Brooks Camp came into view.  It was good to see the place.  It was quite the ride out and everyone was glad to arrive and get off the boat.  By the end of the day the winds had calmed down and the ride home was not so bad.  Tomorrow I will tell you about my day at camp.

Fish Ladder at the Falls in Brooks River

In 1959 a couple of well meaning fisheries employees thought they would help the salmon make their trip upstream in the Brooks River.  They decided they would build a fish ladder.  There was only a few National Park people at the time and they thought that this wasn't right so they communicated with the regional office.  The only form of communication from Brooks Camp to regional office was snail mail.  By the time regional office got the letter and drafted their response and mailed it back, the fish ladder was built.  The regional office letter said to stop the building immediately.  But it was too late.

Today the fish ladder is decaying and falling apart.  We are thinking about its future plans.  The plans for the day are to take a representative of the Alaska Game and Fish Fisheries division out to inspect the ladder.  Lucky for me, I have been put in charge of all correspondence about the fish ladder.  So my boss and I are taking the visitor out to Brooks Camp to examine the ladder.  It is going to be a cold boat ride out to the park on the water.  Maintenance has been pulling boats and the docks out as the water edges have begun to freeze.  But we are going to brave one last trip across Naknek lake. 

I will have to have my waders on as the inspection will be a water tour and I heard from those that pulled the docks that water is cooooold.  But all I can think about is another chance to see the bears, if there are any.  Brown bears will start to den in late October and in November.  I can't wait to see who is still around.  What a nice way to finish the week,

First Machine Used in Katmai Preserve

Yesterday I began reading a report that is trying to convince the government to allow ATV's use the preserve.  Mostly native families for subsistence use.  The report studied families in two very small villages in the NW corner of the park.  There have been some very interesting interviews with the older generation of these villages.  One story I would like to share with you.

There was an older man who said that in 1969 he was out in the woods and heard this engine sound.  He first thought it was a plane but when he searched the sky he didn't see anything.  The noise grew louder and he got scared.  He was hurrying home when he saw a neighbor on a strange machine.  They called them sno-gos (snowmachine).  It was the first time he had seen anything like that. Up until that time all travel in the area was done by dog sled.  1969 was when sno-gos were introduced to that part of the bush.  In 1969 I was nine years old and I can remember snowmobiles used every winter just for fun. 

Before the sno-gos people had to hunt and fish not only for themselves but to feed the dogs too.  It took an awful lot of food.    When they hunted, if they happened to kill a moose it would take days to get all the meat home and then only if they were lucky that a wolf or bear didn't get the rest of the meat before they got back.  Once the snowmachines arrived life greatly approved for the villages. After the snowmachine came army surplus vehicles.  Jeeps and transport trucks were the way they got around.   Now every household has an ATV for transportation. What a change process to live through.

Great Day in Alaska

Yesterday was a great day here in King Salmon.  We had our first snowfall.  It did not last long and the snow did not stay on the ground but it did snow.  I love the snow and can't wait till the ground is covered.  The mountains of Katmai are blanketed in white and shine in the afternoon sunlight.  It is breathtaking.

The other great thing is I get to start working on the wolf population in the park.  Working jointly with the Fish and Wildlife Service (FWS) office we are going to be collaring and following three of the packs in Katmai.  The FWS think there may be five or six packs in the park.  From peoples observations, I would guess we have at least six if not more.  The FWS is looking at isotopes in the fur to see what the wolves are feeding on.  This is exciting as I have had reports from the Swikshak Bay that the wolves are eating marine mammals.  So we will be collaring that pack for sure.  Besides the fact that I want to record what they are eating I have yet to be that far north in the park.  These are all great things.  We have not yet decided where in the park we are going to capture the other wolves.  This will be the first time that the park service has done an official survey in the park.  It is so exciting.  We may start as early as next week to capture our first wolf.  Stay tuned.

Ice Fog Cometh

It is beginning to be a habit.  As the sun is low in the horizon the fog bank rises.  It is caused by all the moisture in the air and the cold temps and the open water.  The combination of the three creates not just an ordinary fog bank but a bank of fog so thick you can not see across the street.  A fog bank so thick that the airport closes.  A fog bank so thick that you shiver just looking at it.  You just look out the window and say "wow".  It lasts until the sun is high enough to melt it away.  Yesterday we had such a fog.  It was amazing to look out the window and see nothing but gray.  The dampness of it went right through you.  Everything in view just disappeared into the emptiness.  It would have been a day to curl up with a book under blanket but I spent the day in an eight hour meeting, the fog bank keeping me memorized as I listened to other talk.

Cold Nights and Freezing Ice

The nights are getting colder.  The temperatures are dropping into the low 20's and the water in the area is beginnig to freeze.  I was talking with my boss and got a lesson on how the water will freeze in the area.  First the small ponds will freeze.  Then most of the smaller lakes.  The rivers will begin to freeze and then the larger lakes.  Some of the lakes will not freeze completely.  Naknek lake is one of these lakes.  It will have open water through out the winter especially where the Brooks river flows into it. 

Our float plane has gone in the shop to have the floats removed for the winter.  It will come back with big fat tires that will be able to land on the ice.  I would like to go out to Brooks Camp to run a Christmas Day Bird Count but to do that I will have to have enough ice for the plane to land.  Seems funny that up here so far north that not all the ice will freeze.  I have been monitoring the changes in the water levels.  Now that it has turned colder river levels are dropping again and the tide is effecting Naknek river.  Low tide brings in large areas of mud flats and high tide just isn't that high any more.

The ice will bring creatures of new kinds to watch.  Walruses and seals may pop out onto the ice and the beluga whales should be returning.  I wonder what other kinds of surprises the winter will bring.

Buying on Impulse

I have learned a great lesson today.  Never buy on impulse in the bush of Alaska.  I went to the AC, our little general store in King Salmon.  I just needed a gallon of Milk.  Everytime I go into the store I always walk around in the case that something I use might be on sale and I could stock up.  As I walked by the produce section which is about four feet long, I noticed that they had holiday grapes.  I don't know what variety they are or if holiday grapes is the variety but they only come out every year right before the start of the holiday season and are gone by the time the New Year starts.  I love these grapes.  They are big, juicy, seedless and just melt in your mouth.  I ate them by the tons in the lower 48.  I never expected to see them here in King Salmon.  Before my brain had a chance to kick in my stomach took over and I picked up a bag of the grapes and headed to the register.  I knew the milk was just under $11 for the gallon so I pulled out a twenty dollar bill.  Then I was told the bill was $26.15.  My little bag of holiday grapes cost me over fifteen dollars.  I felt awful all the way home at spending so much for a bag of grapes.  Then I ate one and they are delicious.  I am going to try and make them last for as long as possible.  I am savoring every grape.  But I hope that is the last time I let my stomach do the shopping.

Surprise trip to Brooks Camp

I got to make a quick day trip back out to Brooks Camp and to take Craig with me.  We left in the morning when the air was cool and crisp.  35 degrees F to be exact.  We were bundled up for the boat ride out.  It was pretty foggy on the way out there but just before we got there the fog burned away and the mountains that surrounding Brooks Camp were all a glow with new fallen snow.  It was beautiful.  there on the beach to greet us was 402 and her spring cub.  The cub was all fluffy and chubby.  She should make it through the winter.  They however were not that excited about our arrival and laid down in front of the boat and fell asleep.  We had to wait almost an hour for 402 to wake up so we could get off the boat.

Craig and I did what I had to accomplish then went to the lower platform to wait for the rest of the crew to finish their projects.  I was surprised as there were not as many bears as there was when I left a week ago.  I guess they have started to make their way up the mountains to start digging this years dens.  Brown bear never use the same den but always den in the same areas.  After an hour of watching what few bears there were I got a call on the radio to meet at the boat.  We were the first to arrive so we climbed on board and then the parade started.  Tundra walked by and looked at us as she passed.  A few minutes later 284 walked up, right up to the boat and looked at us as if saying see you next year if you it through the winter.  Then she marched off down the beach only to meet 402 and cub coming our direction.  284 played a little game of chicken with the sow then ran off to a safe direction.  402 went into the water and did a number of graceful dives.  As graceful has a 400 pound bear can do.  One dive was right next to the boat.  I think she wanted to make sure we would remember her.  The cub was at the front of the boat putting on a show of her own.  Then Lurch appeared down the beach and cleared everyone out.  All my favorite bears had come and said goodbye.  I am not sure when I will be back to Brooks Camp but I a sure anxious for that day to be here.  It was a great summer with the bears.

Katmai Report 1916

In the office there is a file cabinet.  In that cabinet are reports from previous years on just about anything having to do with Katmai, Aniakchak and the Alagnak River.  Every night I read a report or two.  Right now I am concentrating on all the bird studies and wolf studies done in the park.  Most reports are kind of dull.  Then last night I read this report from 1916.

It was written by Charles Madsen-Game Warden. He starts the report off by saying that it is his job to protect wildlife and executing the Alaska Game laws.  He then goes on to say "The animals in this district are quite well known, however, the factors tending to their destruction are not well known or understood."  His report is actually dealing with all of the Alaskan Peninsula.  He talks about the Caribou saying that their biggest threat is the natives.  The value of a caribou coat at that time was $1.00 to a $1.30.  The natives use to kill the caribou to feed their dogs which made Charles very angry as there was tons of salmon to be had to feed the dogs with.   He doesn't give any abundance numbers but he does say that the Alaskan Grizzly has a great fondness of the calf and old caribou.

He talks about there being 100 walrus in the vicinity of Izembeck Bay, farther south of here.  This herd he says if full of old bulls which he thinks are outcast of northern herds.  Though seeing walrus is rare he says there is an abundance of beach ivory to be found.  At today's standard that is quite the find.

There was an abundance of sea lions who made a nuisance of themselves getting caught in fish traps and nets of the natives.  They did not eat all of the fish in the nets they just took bites out of every fish.  His report states "As these animals generally travel in schools, it is a considerable havoc that they can accomplish during the summer."

He describes the bird population as plentiful when it comes to waterfowl, sea birds, song birds, ptarmigan, eagles and ravens.  The coast he describes during the spring and early summer as "literally covered with the eggs of gulls, puffins and eider ducks."

Now you might be surprised to find, as I was that the most important of all the fur bearing animals caught on the peninsula was the red fox.  It is reported that 20,000 were trapped in the past year (1915).  Though the red fox was not close to extinction at that time the trappers catch was down 50% from previous years.

The land otter was said to be close to extinction at this time.  There were only 39 - 40 caught in the last hunting season.  His reports states that these creatures are most definitely under the protection of the law.

And last but not least the Alaskan Brown Bear or Grizzly.  A creature who is so abundant on the peninsula.  He describes the brown bear as "a not altogether reputable animal."  In his opinion the only thing that makes them great is the sportsmen tales.  Though the numbers of them are high he can't seem to find one that is of good quality.  I am not sure what he means by that.  But he is his description of the grizzly is: "It's flesh is useless as food; it's pelt is of no great value; and it destroys anything and everything that comes within its reach.  It even seems to enjoy an opportunity of getting into a trappers cache or place of residence and tearing to pieces his supplies- and it will be very little that he will leave in a usable condition before he is through.  They stock in the peninsula an almost impossibility.  They have even gone so far as to carry off and devour the body of a man, who had been drowned and placed upon the shore while word was being sen to the Marshall. "  I think 284 and I would have to disagree with him.  We know better about a brown bears worth.

Are You Prepared For Winter?

Now that I am back in King Salmon, everyone is asking if I am ready for winter.  I was asked if I have enough salmon in my freeezer.  I wonder how much salmon is enough?  I was asked how my moose meat levels were.  Didn't know you measured levels of moose meat. I am not sure if I have enough meat for the winter but I will stalk up on it in Anchorage in a few weeks.

I was told that I would need ice grippers for my shoes.  Got them.  I was told that I would need a head lamp to see as it stays dark so long.  It arrived yesterday.  I was told that I should be planning what to do when the power goes out.  That I am not sure about as everything needs electricity to work.  But I am trying to prepare.  I have candles, a coleman stove to cook on but I need fuel, and mountain house meals left over from the summer if need be.  As for staying warm I have lots of clothes and blankets. 

The big question is what do you do in the winter.  My neighbor says she thinks about food and eats food.  She thinks about beer and drinks beer and when it is cold and stormy she is knocking on my door to play scrabble.  A lady visiting the area who works in Denali but lives in a village of 12 people told me to go out and buy a wig.  She says every fall the people of her village buy new wigs.  Then in the winter they show up at people's doors in their new wigs.  She says it really works on fighting of the winter blues.  And everyone around here reads.  I am covered on that as I am a serious bookaholic so I have a large supply ready for winter.  They also travel.  Most employeess take vacations during the winter.  One is going to Costa Rica, one to Hawaii, one to Maine, and one to Belize.  Most are going for two weeks or more.  Me, quick trip home in January but I want to experience an Alaska winter.  Some call me nuts.  I guess we will wait and see.

Moose Update

Well, I thought I was going to see a moose while I was at Brooks Camp.  I had been given the right location,time and directions on how to see a moose but no go.  I needed to borrow the camp vehicle to go up the valley road.  Unfortunately it had to be winterized now that the season is over.  So no valley road.  I thought I would get to see them on Dumpling but the bears would not let me get to the trail.  The moose continue to evade and torture me.  As I walked home today, I saw moose tracks on the trail heading to our house.  These moose have a terrific sense of humor.  I was not laughing.

284 and Last Adventures

Time is running out for the bears.  As summer winds down and we humans disappear from Brooks Camp they have just a few weeks before they head off for their six months of slumber.  It is my last day at Brooks camp and I am dreading saying goodbye. But who should appear before my misty eyes?  It is my favorite bear, 284!  She has become my favorite bear.  She is a female subadult, 2 1/2 years old and full of attitude and playfulness. 

I was walking through camp when I see her chase another bear down to the beach.  I look at her and she looks at me.  If camp were open she would have to be chased out but since I was the only person in camp we just kept looking at each other.  Her eyes had that look of defiance that I had come to know and love.  I could tell she wanted to go down to the beach to fish but as she stared at the shoreline, we both noticed that there were two bears all ready on the beach in that area.    She took a look at me and I said well I wouldn't go down there now either.  So she layed down right there on the trail with her eyes on the beach.  I heard a plane landing on the beach and knew that in a few minutes a group of fishermen would be coming up onto the trail and I did not want them surprised by 284 so I stood where I was and watched.  I told her I was just going to keep her company.  Sure enough a couple of minutes later two anglers walked up and I yelled at them to go around 284.  I smiled at her and she looked at me.  Not sure what she was thinking.  Knowing 284 it was either thank you or I can take care of myself.  Who knows.  I decided to wait until she moved down to the beach.

Just as I made that decision I saw movement farther down the trail.  Around the corner came Lurch.  I looked at 284 and sighed.  Look girl I said, I am not in the mood to deal with Lurch I am going to the other side of camp want to join me?  She just looked at me and kind of huffed.  Guess I insulted her.  I told her to have a great winter and moved well out of Lurchs way.  I don't know what 284 did but I am sure she waited until the last minute to leave.  She doesn't show that much fear around the bigger bears.  Later on my way back to the cabin I saw her fishing in the river so she made it just fine.  I hope she makes it just fine all winter because Brooks camp wouldn't be the same without her.

Things I Do For The Bears

The bears are not going far from the river.  They are eating and sleeping and playing all within short distances of the river.  They are also getting very lazy as they are using the roads and trails more than the woods.  Which means if I want to go anywhere I have to take detours.  These detours mean that I have to stay my 50 yards away from the bear but I might have to go to places that I probably didn't have on my agenda. 

For instance I was walking to the lower platform and two of the larger males were coming down the road towards me.  So to get out of their way I walked 50 yards into the woods.  I wanted to make sure I could see the bears as they walked by but still maintain my distance.  Of course, the bears don't understand time schedules or the fact that you might have something more important to do than to stand in the woods and wait for them to pass.  The two males began wrestling with each other.  It was quite entertaining to watch but I was not getting my work done.  Then finally the mosied down the road.  With all the wieght they are carrying they are not the fastest moving things right now.  By the time they had walked past and got the proper distance away from me a half an hour had passed.

I wanted to cross the river and head up Dumpling Mountain as I had reports of fresh moose tracks on the trail.  Once at the platform I waited another 45 minutes to cross the bridge.  I headed for the ranger station but I ran into a sleeping bear on the the trail.  I made my way into the woods, again, and down to the beach.  Where I had just enough time to get to the next trail back up to the main trail before I ran into another bear heading towards me on the beach.  When I got to the visitor center three bears were asleep around the building.  Now I had to head to the other side of camp and use the back trail to the ranger station.  Finally, I made it to the office.  Did what I needed to do and headed down to the beach.  I would need to walk to the campground to start the hike up the mountain.  The beach is the best way to go when you want to see what you might run into.  Right at the end of the ranger station trail to the beach was a sleeping bear.  I reversed my direction and headed down to the generator trail to see if I could get to the beach that way.  No luck as there was a bear sleeping there also.  Next choice would be to walk the campground trail. 

The campground trail winds it way through the woods about 20 yards from the beach to the campground.  But again I met a bear with a fish.  I turned around yet again.  Trying very hard to accomplish my task I had one other choice and that is called the back trail.  It is a flagged trail we made through the woods to reach the back end of the campground.  I was half way there.  I thought things were looking up but no I had two bears running towards me.  I moved very quickly up and worked my way back to camp.  I was not meant to climb Dumpling today. 

By this time I had only a couple of hours to get through camp and back across the river to get to the lower platform to perform the night survey.  I weaved and moved my way back through camp and made it across the bridge with 10 minutes to spare.  We did the survey which last just before dark.  We started to head down the road to our cabin only to find that Beadnose, a cute young female had decided that the road was the perfect place for a nap.  The only problem was that on either side of the road in that area was a marsh, full of water.  So to keep our distance we walked into the marsh across 50 yards than walked towards the cabin then back to the road.  I would not have minded if I had my waders on but since I had planned on hiking dumpling I had my hiking boots on.  Now I am wet and cold and very tired.  My partner and I get a little farther down the road when we see 410.  She is waddling down the road the same direction as we are.  As much as I would love to hurry home I have to travel 50 yards behind 410 at a slow waddle.  I was ready for some hot chocolate and my bed by the time I got home.  What a day.  I did a lot to keep the bears safe and happy.

The Amazing Flashlight

I am not a big person on commercials or promoting items but I have a story to tell about an amazing little flashlight.  Now that the days are getting darker and darker, I wanted to get a good flashlight.  I had certain criteria for my flashlight.  It had to small not big and heavy.  It had to be light weight and it had to be rechargeable as I didn't want to keep buying batteries for it.  I found one that looked like it did all three.  When it arrived I fell in love with it.  It was compact and fit into my pocket.  It is a LED light so it works great.  I took it along to Brooks Camp.

One night while on the platform at the cut bank my hands were starting to get cold.  I went to pull my gloves out of my pocket and my flashlight fell out.  It rolled across the platform and into the river.  We were in the middle of a session and there were ten bears in the area.  Not a good time to go find a flashlight in the water.  I watched the flashlight float a ways down river and then sink to the bottom.  I figured my flashlight had died.  After the session was over my partner and I walked down the bank to see if we could retrieve it.  She watched for bears and I tried to reach out for it but even with a long stick I could not get it as it was in too deep of water and too far from shore.  I told my partner I would wear my waders tomorrow morning and I would go get it then since we had to do an early morning session there the next day.

When we arrived at the cut bank the next morning it was still kind of dark.  We decided we would wait until after the session for me to get the flashlight.  While up on the platform I looked in the water to see the flashlight.   I could not see it anywhere.   Two hours later we were walking along the bank going down river watching for bears and my flashlight.  We found it 500 feet from where it sunk the night before.  I walked out into the water to get it.  I picked it up and noticed that it was filled water.  Not a good sign,  Then I noticed it had teeth marks around the top of it.  Three nice indentions that cracked the case just a little.  I started laughing.  There was no way my little flashlight would work after that but I was wrong.  I pushed the button and light shined from the end of the flashlight.  It had spent 12 hours in cold Alaskan waters, been picked up and chewed on by a bear and yet it still worked.  That is why today I am letting all of you know that the Dorcy Rechargeable Flashlight will be the only flashlight I ever use.  If you need a dependable flashlight choose it.

Brave Beaver

I know I monitor and manage bears during the day.  That is my job.  On my off time, what do I do at Brooks?  I go watch bears.  I walk down the valley road to see what is hanging out for the evening sunlight.  This week every time I walk down to the lower platform I have seen high numbers of spruce grouse.  I have seen a black backed woodpecker which is a rarer bird to see at Brooks.  I have seen it 3 times this year.  There have been reports of lynx in the area and I am hoping to see one but I haven't been so lucky.  Once at the platform I count the bears.  There are about 11 bears hanging out by the bridge area.  There is a mixture of subadults, females and a dominannt male or two.  As I am watching the bears I notice a brown figure swimming in the water.  At first I thought it was a small bear.  To find the fish in the water a bear will snorkle, with just its ears above water, it swims and floats the river watching the water for slow moving, dying fish.  So seeing a brown head in the water is no new thing.  But as I watched, I realized that it wasn't a bear but a beaver.  A large size, slow moving, rather curious beaver.  I watched as it swam in between all the fishing bears.  I thought for sure that a bear would take a swipe at the beaver as how much salmon can a bear eat without wanting a taste of something different and here was a chunky morsel of beaver meat swimming right by them.  Bears do eat beaver.  I saw one attack a beaver den in the spring to get to the beavers inside.  Of course, it didn't work out to well for the bear as the beavers swam out and watched the bear attack their home. I watched the beaver swim pretty close to bears eating fish.  I do not know what the beaver was thinking but he was either very stupid or very brave.  Either way he was a round the area for about 15 minutes then we lost sight of him, which I hope means he survived to go home for dinner not be dinner. 

Watch Out for Lurch

Walking to the cutbank monitoring site my partner and I saw a sleeping mass of bear.  We detoured around the bear and climbed up into our stand.  The platform we monitor bear behavior on is about 2 feet by 4 feet long.  Just enough room for two people to sit on.  It is ten feet off the ground and situated between four trees.  They are not big trees but big enough to attach the platform.  The front two trees have the ground being washed out underneath them that at the end of the monitoring season we will have to move the platform because we think the trees will fall in the river this winter.  So a half an hour into the session we notice a very large black body moving towards the river.  It is Lurch, a very dominant male.  He was the sleeping mass we avoided.  Good thing as I would have hated surprising him from a slumber.  We did not want him to know that we were on the platform so we both sat very still and did not say a word.  Then Lurch walk underneath us and we felt like he was rubbing his body on the tree.  Now bears will stand on the hind legs and scratch their backs against the trees.  My partner and I looked at each other and I asked her if she thought he was rubbing against the tree.  She nodded.  She reached for a can of bear spray.  We wanted to be prepared in case Lurch stood up to scratch his back because the last thing we wanted was to surprise him and his 12 feet of solid mass.  who knew what he would have done if he stood up and saw two humans looking him in the eye.  The rubbing stopped and we watched Lurch lumber through the trees and down the bank of the river. The ground shook and the trees swayed. We both breathed a sigh of relief.  Later when our session was done and we had climbed back down we noticed that the tree did not have rubbing marks that usually appear when a bear rubs against the tree.  We realized that Lurch wasn't rubbing the trees he had just gotten stuck between them and was trying to get out.  What a calamity that would have been, anything could have happened, such as, the front trees could have fallen in the water along with us.  Or the platform could have come loose from the trees and us on top of him.  Either way we would have had to do some scrambling.  Good thing he got loose so I could live to tell the tale.

Ballet of the Mergansers

The mergansers are gathering for their long migration south.  Everyday the number of them in the river increases.  I love the entertainment that they provide.  It is nothing short of a water ballet. First the flock spreads out in formation.  Then they gracefully move across the water in perfect formation.  They are trying to school the frys in the water.  The baby salmon that are migrating into the ocean.  The all of the sudden in perfect time they will run across the water and dive down to catch the fish.  Today there were 20 mergansers in front of the lower platform performing this beautiful manuever over and over.  It is amazing to see the timing and the ability of such a large group of ducks move together as they had been doing this all along.  Yet during the summer we only saw one or two mothers and chicks.  And no, not all the mergansers were this years chicks.  Most of the chicks are eaten by ravens, eagles, bears and other predators.  Even a gull will eat a baby duckling.  We had one mother that started with 12 chicks and only one made it through to this fall.  We watched two taken by ravens.  Mother nature taking care of her own.  I feel sorry for the chicks when they are eaten.  I don't however feel sorry for the baby fish.  I guess it is because they are not as cute and cuddly.

Cycle of September Bears

It is very different in September here at Brooks camp than in July.  The river is full of bears eating fish.  It is fun watching them as they have gained about 30% of their body wieght.  Which is pretty amazing considering that is a lot of weight to gain in just 5 months.  They waddle now down to the river.  Jump in and catch a fish or two or five or ten.  The fish are easier to catch as they are dying after spawning.  Then the bears lumber out of the water.  They don't move too far from the river.  They find a spot in the trees along the shore or on the beach, dig a hole and sleep.  They may sleep for an hour or two or maybe the whole afternoon then it is back to the river for more fish.  Sleep- drag themselves to the river-eat-drag themselves out of the river-sleep.  Once in a while you will see them playing.  I have seen two males boxing with each other.  One bear floating down the river while chewing on a large branch.  I have watched them jump up and down on fallen trees hanging over the river.  But for the most part it has been eat and sleep and eat and sleep.  What a life the bears have.   

Changes at Brooks Camp

I landed in Brooks Camp and was amazed at the changes.  First of all the bears were everywhere.  Three were sleeping along the beach, six were in the mouth of the river fishing and I saw one heading through camp and that is just what I could see from getting off the boat. 

The next thing I noticed is that it was so quiet.  Without the interpretive staff and planes full of visitors, camp was really quiet.  As I walked into camp the lodge had boarded all the doors and windows to all the cabins and the lodge itself.  The maintenance staff were working on shutting off the water to the north side of camp where everyone use to stay.  Maintenance and biology staff stay on the south side of the river.  In the ranger station the computers and cold sensitive equipment had been boxed and ready to move back to King Salmon.  It was very strange to see the place so humanless. 

As I got my gear loaded in a gator to haul over to the cabin I stay in, I noticed 402 but I only saw one cub.  I looked and looked for the other but the one cub was all I saw.  When I asked where the other cub was I was told that 747, a dominant male, had attacked and eaten the poor cub.  It was sad, as usually this time of year cubs are not attacted by the males.  It was sad to think three months ago I stood 35 yards away and watched 402 nurse the cute triplets and now there was only one left.  Cub mortality was high this year.  Milkshake who had four last spring, lost one in the fall last year, came back with two this spring and this fall she showed up by herself and was very thin and sick looking.  We are thinking that she died as she was only seen a couple of days and then disappeared.  I am hoping she kicked the cubs off early and somehow they are surviving but it may not be likely.  Another sow who had four cubs last spring came back without any this spring.  608 who usually fishes regularly at the river was here in the spring with her two yearlings but she did not come back this fall.  Then of course, 402 now losing two of hers.  If all the cubs were lost that makes the mortality rate higher than normal which is 33% survival rate for cubs.  I am hoping that next year we have a bumper crop of spring cubs.  For now we just have to wait and see.

How To See A Moose

Those of you who read this blog regularly know that I have been trying to see a moose at Katmai National Park.  Today at the office I was getting all kinds of advise on how to see a moose.  Everything from go to Anchorage as supposedly there are lots of moose there to the exact place to go while at Brooks Camp. 

I was told by a long time employee and native of the area the precise place to go when I get to Brooks Camp.  I am to go on the valley road until the last curve before I reach Three Forks and the Valley of 10,000 smokes.  I am to walk 50 feet on the right side of the road at about 3pm.  I am to take a stick out with me to beat the grasses with.  Then I am to seek a place to hide but will still be able to see the moose.  When I am ready I am suppose to make a low gutteral sounds, forget the moose call.  Then I am to take the stick and beat the grasses.  A bull moose will think that this is another bull moose and will come to investigate.  I should keep making the sounds and beating the grasses and quaranteed a moose will appear from the valley below.  Of course when it gets to about 30 feet away, I was told I was to stand up and let the moose know I was there and human or make a bee line for my vehicle.  As the moose will be looking for a fight.  Since I am desparate to see a moose, I am willing to try anything.  Stay tuned, I am heading out to Brooks Camp.

Tribute to the Interpreters

The interpreters are back from Brooks Camp.  Most of them anyways.  There are a few people left to give guidance to the fishermen but most are back in King Salmon.  They are catching their flights back to the various parts of the states.  some are going home to go back to college.  Some go back to teach.  Some are moving on to other parks for the winter and a few are off on traveling adventures.

Interpreters have a tough job.  They have to be smiling ambassadors to our nations parks.  They have to be knowledgable about all the parks history, current biology, geology and ecology.  They have to know all the rules and protect visitors from the animals and from themselves.  It may be hard to believe but some visitors leave their brains at home and do some very stupid stuff.  Don't believe me, read "Oh,Ranger"  book one and two.  They are great books available at all park service vistior gift shops. 

The interpreters at Brooks Camp have even a tougher job as they have 45 to 72 brown bears in the area where the most visitors are.  They have to protect visitors, themselves all the while they are respecting bear territory.  Most of them have been under alot of stress especially these past few days with so many bears to deal with.  So I thought that I would throw them a going away dinner.

I invited all of those who were still in town to my house for dinner last night.  Six of them came.  I made chicken pot pie- from scratch, along with biscuits home made and a fruit salad.  My next door neighbor joined us and brought brownies and ice cream and I had some chocolate syrup to pour on top if they wanted to go all out.  It was a great evening.  They seemed to enjoy the food and even though I just have a few chairs the gathered around my coffee table and ate and ate.  We talked about all kinds of things and it was a great time.  I am going to miss them all and hope they return back next year though some will move on to other parks.  They did a fantastic job this year!!!!

On a personal note, I was told that a fan of the blog was at the park looking for me.  I am sorry I missed you.  I would have loved giving you a tour and getting to know you.  I hope you had an enjoyable memory making time at Brooks Camp.  If you have a chance leave me a comment and tell me what you thought.