First Day in Alaska

So where to start.  After spending four hours trying to rest in the baggage claim area of the Anchorage Airport.  Craig and I took Camille and Sully to check them in for the last section of our journey. The last hour and half would be on a Penn Airways flight to King Salmon.  On the way to check the animals in, Craig and I passed a Cinnabon place and thought that would be a great place for breakfast. We passed airport security and there was no line so that made us happy as we thought we would be going through it again.  We finally got to the Penn Air check in spot and no one was there.  They are not worried about being there to early before a flight.  This is where we had to prove that we had the animals up to date on their rabies vaccine.  After a few minutes of paper work we were told to move the kennels and animals to the gate.  Which was L1.  L1 is located on the lower floor of the airport.  We took an elevator down to
the lower level and up a ramp to our gate.  We did not have to go through security.  I guess if your moving to the bush you are no longer a security risk.  You also don't get to eat at the Cinnabon place, you have a choice of stale products found in a so called coffee shop.  Not very exciting and horrible food.
We waited to board our plane.  When we checked in we were asked our weight and the estimated weight of our carry on.  I had never been asked about this before.  The lady at the counter said their plane was small and it helped them out to know the weight.  While we were waiting for the plane to arrive at the gate I kept wondering how big it was.  Then it arrived.  It was a small prop plane.  The waiting room was full of people but for our flight to King Salmon there would be twenty people on board, 17 men and three women. There was a sign in the waiting room letting you know that your luggage may not arrive on the same flight as you.  That was also new for me to be told that your luggage may not arrive not surprised by the fact.
We watched as our luggage was moved to the plane.  Our 8 checked in pieces made it on to the plane.  Then they came and got the animals and wheeled them out on the tarmac and loaded them into the plane.  People were next.  As we went through the door to go outside on the tarmac you were required to show ID.  That was the limit of the security.  We walked across the tarmac and to the plane.  We had to climb a set of stairs and into the small aircraft.  As you entered the plane the flight attendant, Chandtel, offered you a little yellow package.  I thought it was our in flight snack and was laughing at the service.  That is until I sat down and actually looked at the package.  We were given ear plugs.  Now this is the first time
for me on a prop plane.  The package of ear plugs did not make me feel comfortable.  I was given a window seat on one sideof the plane and Craig had a window seat on the other side of the plane.  When the flight started and the props began to revolve I completely understood why we were given ear plugs.  The noice was very, very loud.  The flight took 1 hour and 10 minutes.  We could not see a thing as it was cloudy and rainy.  I did see a few mountain peaks but not much else until just before we landed.  Then you could see a lot of small frozen lakes and ice on the shores of the river. As we landed I did notice quite a few very nice houses around the area.  The airport was a pole barn, inside and out.  Inside, we found our host and met quite a few people.  Our new neighbors happened to be at the airport.  One of my new collegues was at the airport with his two daughters.  His daughters I learned have the best coffee house and make the best cinnamon rolls but they are not open yet.  Then the baggage arrived.  The baggage was taken from the plane and placed on a cart that was brought to a big window.  You grabbed your stuff from the window.  Craig and I had to help lift Camille's kennel through the window. From there it was on to our house which is a beautiful, two-story duplex.  We live on one side another coworker on the other.
We unloaded all our gear and our host offered to take us on a tour and to get some food but we opted for a nap and shower first.  After a three hour nap and a hot shower, we unpacked our stuff which looked like a lot but when put away it really wasn't that much. The house came furnished with a bed in each room, though Craig's bed has a frame and my set sits on the floor, which I don't mind it is still a bed which I appreciate.  Craig's room had a dresser and nightstand and a desk.  My room came with a bookshelf.
the dining room had a table and three chairs, and the living room had a couch, coffee table and small entertainment center.  It also has a built in book shelf.  After unpacking we called our host and went out to get the tour of the office and the town.  I got introduced to most of the office staff.  I hope there isn't a test because I would fail.  Twenty some people work there year round and this weekend 20 or more seasonal staff would be arriving.  The office is in the King Salmon mall which consists of two floors.  The upstairs holding the park service staff offices and the lower floor has a Wells Fargo Bank.  From the office we were taken to the post office to get our box and the first of the ton of packages being sent up to us.   By the way as far as boxes being sent goes, I am way behind the rest of the staff, especially the ones who come back year atfer year.  They hadn't even arrived yet and some people had twenty boxes waiting  for them.  From the post office we went to the phone company to get our service hooked up but we just missed them as they closed for the weekend.  Have to do that on Monday, I guess.  Then our host dropped us off at Eddies which is right next door to the office.  Craig and I went in for some food, our first since the stale doughnuts that morning.  The place was nice but older.  I had a quarter pound cheeseburger with onion, lettuce and tomato, and a small dish of potato salad.  Craig had a half pound cheeseburger and a small dish of coleslaw.  We both had a glass of milk to drink.  The food was good but the price for our meal was $30.90 plus tip.

Next it was on to the grocery store.  Hold on to your hat as I give you the prices.
Gallon of milk  $10.19
Bread           $5.45
Hamburger $5.99 a pound
Doritos  $7.95
Apples  $2.89 a pound
Bananas  $2.89 a pound
Oatmeal  $10.39
Spagetti O's $2.79 a can
Craig loves peanut M&Ms the large bage you can buy at Walmart for around $8 is $17.99 cents here.
We bought 2 apples, a gallon of milk, a pound of hamburger, a bag of chicken drumsticks, on sale for $6.99, and a ham steak.  The total bill $35.49.  Our refrigerator and freezer look very empty.  I hope our food arrives soon. By the way there were no eggs to buy at the store. Guess I might have to order 15 dozen. 

After our shopping tour we were taken home.  Craig, Camille and I went for a walk.  We saw ten bald eagles along the river.  We saw a flock of gulls and you could hear sandhill cranes but we never saw them.  The river is a half mile from the house.  Craig said it was a heck of a backyard. 

We Have Reached Alaska!

It is almost 2 am in Anchorage Alaska.  I am sitting on the floor in the baggage claim area listening to my cat meow because he wants to roam.  Camille is lying next to me on the cold floor.  Craig is stretched out on a line of chairs trying to get some sleep.  I am wide awake right now.  I slept pretty much the whole flight.  Not sure how the animals did on the flight but both of them seem to be fine.  I heard no meowing or barking on the flight so either the meds worked or the baggage area is well insulated.  Now it is just a matter of time until we board a plane for the last part of our Journey.  We are a little worried as our flight is not listed on the departure board but we are being brave and waiting for a few hours before we panick.

I can't tell you much about the Anchorage area.  Coming in it was dark and I was sitting in an aisle seat and could only see the wings of the plane.  Once we were on the ground I could see the terminal.  Anchorage airport is pretty nice from what I have seen of it and the people are helpful.  It must take flights continuosly as it is 2am and flights are still leaving.  Even the restaurants were still open when we got off the plane.  Not an exciting review but you shouldn't expect much at this time of the morning. 

Just a note:  as we get to King Salmon it may take awhile before I post as I need to find internet connection.

Have You Been Wondering Where I Am?

Hi!  Sorry I disappeared for a while.  Yesterday I spent the day eating, visiting kids, eating, driving from place to place, and more eating.  This morning was spent washing clothes, last minute packing, and the weighing of the suitcases.  Then of course, it was the rearrangement of junk so suitcases stayed under 50 pounds.  Then drug the animals and head to the airport.

The animals behaved excellently in the car on the way to the airport.  Camille was great in the airport while I checked everything in.  Sully on the other hand wanted out of the kennel and was letting everyone know.  But the check in took a while but went pretty smoothly.  We made it through with all six suitcases weighing under 50 pounds and both boxes went on without a hitch.  Criag and I made it through security.  We boarded the plane for the first section of the flight to Seattle.  Before take off I recieved a little card from Sully and Camille telling me not to worry they were on board. 

So I am now writing this in the Seattle Airport.  We have about 30 minutes before the flight to Anchorage.  I am worried about the animals, tired but ready to move on.

I Love Cabela's

I love Cabela's.  Just spent two hours searching for last minute items and for things that I am going to order from the catalog when I get up to Alaska.  I picked up a clip on mosquito repellent thing that attaches to my belt or pack and keeps the bugs away so I don't have to mess with messy lotions or sprays.  I bought a bug net that you wear over your head as I hear the mosquitoes get quite bad.  I picked up a inexpensive GPS that will let me mark 500 wave points and 10 trails.  So Craig and I can go hiking into the wild but find our way home again.  Very important when there are no trails and when you have to avoid bears it could get confusing.  I bought a new water resistant watch.  I need that because I use to use my cell phone as a timer and time keeper but it is not going to work up there so.  I also bought a rain outfit.  It is made of a very weird feeling material but Craig wore his out in the rain today and it seemed to work well.  Got a combination whistle and match holder.   I even managed to get everything packed in over full suitcases.  Two days left!

My Favorite Animal-the Wolf

The list of animals I will be studying includes my favorite, and that is wolves.  Growing up and living in Minnesota I got to listen and see wolves on occasion.  As the kids were growing up, I took them camping in the north woods many times.  We would have wolf howls.  After it got dark we would howl like wolves and see if we got an answer back.  Most times we would hear one return our call.  One night, with a full moon overhead, I was out walking in the woods near a lake.  The lake was frozen as it was in the winter.  I howled like a wolf and I got a reply quite quickly.  Then I saw a pack on the lake.  I watched for hours as the wolves chased and played with each other on the lake.  It was an amazing night.

The closest I have ever been to a wolf was while I was working on my thesis project.  I was studying wetlands and was out doing some insect and bird surveys early in the morning.  The wetland I was working on was at the bottom of the hill.  I had just finished my last stop and climbed the hill to get to my car.  The hill had a variety of very tall grasses growing on it.  When I got to my car I looked down at the wetland and saw a brown head popping up and down through the grass coming for me.  I was trying to figure out what it was when a fawn broke through the grass and ran at full speed right by me.  It ran so close to me that I could have grabbed it with my arms and hugged it.  I turned to see where it was going.  Talking to myself, I asked where it was going in such a hurry and what was chasing it.  I turned back around and there 20 feet away was a wolf.  He was sitting on the ground looking at me.  What did I do?  I apologized for letting his breakfast get away of course.  What would any self respecting person do.  Then I asked if it would sit still for a moment while I got out my camera, but he cocked his head, stood up and trotted back into the grass and disappeared.  It was an awesome experience.

Now after boring you with my experiences I think I will give you some facts about the wolf. 

1.  Alaska is home to the largest remaining wolf population in the world, the population ranges from 7,000 to 11,000 wolves.
2.  In Alaska, unlike in the lower 48, wolves are not endangered species and are classified as big game animals and can be hunted.
3.  Wolves travel in packs, or family groups consisting of an Alpha male and female, offspring, and other adopted members.
4.  They normally feed on members of the deer family, which include caribou and moose.
5.  Wolves are very strong for their size.
6.  Their front paws have five toes while their back paws have four.
7.  They can run up to speeds of 35 mph and can run for 20 minutes.
8.  A wolves body can reduce the amount of blood flow to the skin so it can conserve heat in the frozen nights.
9.  Their stomachs can hold up to 20 pounds of food.
10.  They have enough power in their jaws that they can break most bones with one bite.
11.  From ground to shoulder the average height of a wolf is 32 - 34 inches.
12.  The average weight for a wolf is around 80 pounds.
13.  Their vision during the day is not as good as most hunting dogs but at night their vision is keen.
14.  The have very good hearing.
15.  Wolves mate for life.
16.  Wolves have smaller litters than most other canine species, but the pups tend to be larger.
17.  They are very territorial and base their range on the abundance of prey.
18.  A wolf may take on a brown bear for food but usually the brown bear wins.  I f a brown bear is near the family den, a wolf will fight to the death to protect it, and in most cases will chase off the bear.
19.  Wolves express themselves with many body expressions.
20.  Wolves howl to gather the pack, locate each other in a storm, pass on alarms or to talk to each other a great distances.  Twelve different tones have been recorded that have been made by wolves.

The Journey Has Started

After a great last day at the confluence center, Ken and I packed up the car and headed on the road.  The car is full of junk.  I am afraid that I will get to the airport and they will tell me that I can't take it all with me.  I have left Ken a freezer, the one I was suppose to take with me, full of meals and deserts to keep him well fed while we are apart and with a clean house.  I have said goodbye to everything.  I am going through this circle of emotions: am I doing the right thing, will I be able to handle everything, can I exist without cheeseburgers at McDonalds, department stores and bookstores, without traffic.  Then all of the sudden I get so excited because I am going to Alaska to fulfill a very long time dream.  The last thing I did was to stand outside and listen, I heard the semi's on the highway, a train in the distance but I also heard woodpeckers and robins, ducks and geese.  I wonder what I will hear in Alaska.  Now it is off to say goodbye to the kids and family.

Let's talk Caribou

Good Morning!  Today after work we leave Fort Union.  I no longer have butterflies, some type of bird is flying around my stomach.  So to get my mind off of the birds I thought I would give you 20 facts about Caribou.  Another animal I will be working with at Katmai.

1.  Both male and females have antlers.
2.  They are capable of sleeping in water.
3.  Flies are the reason they move constantly as the flies lay thier eggs on their backs.
4.  They eat lichen, another reason why they move from place to place as it takes years for lichen to grow.
5.  The antlers can grow to four feet in width.
6.  A calf can run 90 minutes after birth.
7.  They have unique hairs that trap air inside to provide insulation and keep them buoyant in the water.
8.  Caribou can migrate 3,000 miles a year.
9.  They can run up to 50 miles an hour.
10.  They weigh between 260-700 pounds.
11. Their life span is between 10 - 15 years.
12. From ground to shoulder they average 34 - 55 inches.
13. They are have a sturdy body and short legs.
14. Caribou's leg tendons make a cracking sound when they move.
15.  Females have just one calf a year usually in May and June.
16.  The calf will be weaned from mom in a month after birth.
17.  Caribou can lower their metabolic rate and go into semi hibernation when conditions are harsh.
18.  They will use their hooves or antlers to shovel snow to get to the food underneath.
19.  They often follow the same migration pattern year after year.
20. Caribou numbers have been declining though no major reason has been found there are a number of theories why.

Moose Facts

I am still studying for the new job.  Next up facts on the Moose.  It is the second most land animal studied at Katmai, so twenty facts for you to familiarize yourself.

1.  Moose are the largest members of the deer family.
2.  Moose prefer to browse tall grasses and shrubs as lowering their heads can be difficult.
3.  Moose are great swimmers and have been known to swim 12.5 miles and they can dive to 16.5 feet.
4.  They can trot along at 20 mph with bursts of speeds up to 35 mph.
5.  They have an average life span of 20 years.
6.  Average height from ground to shoulder is between 5 - 6.5 feet.
7.  Average weight of a moose is 1500 pounds. An Alaskan-Yukon moose can weigh close to 1700 pounds.
8.  They shed their antlers every year and the antlers can grow to a span of 6 feet and weigh as much as 44 pounds.
9.  The word moose comes from Algonquin Indians and means twig eater.
10. Moose are afraid of humans but are mostly seen at dawn and dusk.
11. Their favorite food is aquatic grasses and they can eat up to 66 pounds of food a day.
12. Moose have poor eyesight but acute hearing and sense of smell.
13.  Rutting season goes from early September to early November.  The males can be very aggressive during the rut.
14.  Calves are born weighing around 30 pounds.
15.  Calves grow quickly and can out run a man in five days.
16.  Moose move seasonally and can travel anywhere from 2 - 60 miles during a transition.
17.  Moose have high reproduction rates and without predators would reach population limits fast.
18.  Black bears will attack moose calves, brown bears will attack both adults and calves, at any time they are not in their den, and wolves feed on them all year round
19. Moose is the number one animal hunted in Alaska, with the annual harvest being around 6,000.
20. As their habitat changes with mans encroachment, you can find moose standing on runways, down city streets and they have caused car and train accidents.

Brown Bear Facts

Since the largest part of my job will be to study brown bears I thought I would share some facts about them with you that you may not know.

1.  They are the largest omnivore.
2.  They have 42 teeth.
3.  They have strong, curved, non-retractable claws.
4.  They strike,dig, and handle with their front paws only.
5.  They are remarkably agile, are fast runners, and move with rhythm and precision.
6.  They are susceptible to disease and pests common to humans.
7.  They have a keen sense of smell.
8.  They have low reproduction rates and spank their young.
9.  They tend to be near sighted and also snore.
10. They are intelligent, curious, clever, self-suffient, easy going and independent.
11. Their hump is a mass of muscle that helps provide digging capabilities.
12. Thier are considered natures healthiest child.
13. Average weight can range from 500 - 900 pounds though the record is 2,500 pounds.
14. The height of an average brown bear is between 3 - 5 feet from ground to shoulder.
15. A brown bear can kill a moose, elk or deer with a single blow to the neck, then carry it great distances in its mouth.
16. A normal heart rate is 98 beats a minute but will drop to 40-45 beats a minute at night.  Heart rates have been recorded as low as 8 beats a minute in bears resting in snow banks.
17.  Bears are hosts to 80 types of parasites both internal and external.
18.  Brown bear cubs can nurse for up to 82 weeks but can be nutritionally independent by 22 weeks.
19.  Brown bear cubs stay with their mothers from 17 - 29 months.
20.  They are a symbol of the American Wilderness.

If you would like to read more about bears, I suggest reading "The Great Bear Almanac" by Gary Brown.

What will I eat?

Good Morning!  Last night I wanted to order food to be delivered the day or two after we arrived.  I have been told that most food is shipped in.  I probably should have packed more food in my suitcase but I am going to be there a year + so I need other things too.  Anyways, I went to the Walmart site as groceries were on there web list.  I was totally disappointed as there was not a lot I could order off my grocery list and the list got even smaller because some things can't be mailed.  So I found two businesses that specialize in delivering food to the "bush" areas in Alaska.  Here is the info about Span Alaska you might get a kick out of reading.

Span Alaska Sales is a privately owned business, specializing in supplying groceries to rural Alaska residents, schools, camps and businesses since 1972. We ship groceries utilizing virtually every method of transportation available including parcel post, bypass mail, airfreight, truck, rail, barge, steamship and UPS. Alaska bush pilots in small single engine planes provide delivery into remote rural Alaska village locations, where Native Alaskan's proudly transport Span Alaska food orders in sleds and trailers pulled by snow machine in the winter and 4 wheel ATV's in the summer to the local village residents.

What I learned from shopping last night is that the two companies that ship groceries only sell things by the case.  So I can't get a dozen eggs I have to buy 15 dozen and the cost is $48.  I can buy a case of shredded cheese for $42  30 pounds of blue bonnet cost $52.  But Span does not sell milk or meat. 

The other store, Mailbox Groceries sells meat.  You buy by air packages so I would have to buy 38 pounds of hamburger for the price of $255.  They don't sell any dairy. 

My mind is going 50 miles a minute trying to decide what to eat and how to get it there and still be healthy as there are no doctors.  I definately need to learn how to hunt and fish.

Good News

Good news abounds!  I recieved info on the house and it has a bed, dressers, table and chairs!  Yeah!!!!!!  Also a new partner at the park is meeting us at the airport.  She has been forwarned about the amount of junk accompanying us.

The house has internet capabilities but I will have to get it hooked up.  My choices are dial-up or satellite. UMMMMMM Interesting!!!  I did learn, there is free wifi at Eddy's, one of the greasy spoons I was telling you about.

ND must be preparing me for internet service up there as it was down most of the day here.

My glasses are in.  That is so great.  Today is the last day at the Italian Restaurant.  I'll be glad to get back to the wilderness and being outside.

I mailed the first package to myself.  It should arrive the day we get there.

Four days before we leave here, 9 days before we board the plane.  I think the butterflies are growing. 

Today I am ending with a description of bears by John Muir written in 1901.

Always in season and accessible, ranged on the mountains like stores in a pantry.  From one to another, from climate to climate, up and down he climbs, feasting on each in turn...almost everything is food except granite...the sharp muzzle thrust inquiringly forward, the long, shaggy hair on his broad chest, the stiff ears nearly buried in the hair, and the slow, heavy way in which he moved his head...how heavy and broad-footed bears are, it is wonderful how little harm they do in the wilderness.  Even in the well-watered gardens of the middle region, where the flowers grow tallest, and where during warm weather the bears wallow and roll, no evidence of destruction is visible.

Traveling Into Bear Country

I am not worried about traveling into bear country as I have backpacked in their
territory for many years. But I get asked a lot if I am worried about it especially by my father.  So today's study lesson is how to travel in bear country. 

Most brown bears avoid people.  Very few people actually see a brown bear and out of that number even fewer people are even threatened.  In the first 85 years of the 1900's only 20 people were killed by bears, from 1975 -1985, 19 people were killed by dogs in Alaska. 

Basic Travel Fact Number 1: Let the bears know your there. We do a lot of singing when we are hiking.  That way the bears know your coming.  Glacier National Park tells people to yoddle.  You can take a whistle and blow on it every so often. 

Basic Travel Fact Number 2: Don't camp on a bear trail.  Obviously!

Basic Travel Fact Number 3: Travel around carcasses as bears are scavengers too and may come to feed or it may be a bears cache of stored food which they will protect aggressively.

Bear Travel Fact Number 4: Respect their space, use a longer lens when photographing.

Bear Travel Fact Number 5: Don't let the bears get human food or garbage (which to them is the same thing).  Keep food stored away from camp site and out of reach of bears.  Don't cook things like bacon and fish.  Don't let food smells get on your clothes.  Burn garbage that can be burned and pack out the rest. If your fishing when you see a bear stop. If the fish is on your line don't let him splash, cut the line if you have to.  You don't want to teach the bear that a meal is on the end of the line.

Bear Travel Fact Number 6:  If you see a bear try to avoid it.  They will avoid you if given the chance. 

Bear Travel Fact Number 7:  Identify yourself.  Talk in a normal voice and wave your arms.  Don't worry if the bear stands up he is only curious.

Bear Travel Fact Number 8: Don't try to out run a bear. They can run up to 35 mph.  If they get too close yell, bang pots and pans, or use other noise makers.  Never make growling sounds or high pitch squeals.

Bear Travel Fact Number 9: If a bear actually makes contact, surrender.  Fall to the ground and play dead.  Lie flat on your stomach, or curl up in a ball with your hands behind your neck.  A bear will break off it's attack once it feels the threat has been eliminated.  Remain motionless for as long as possible.  If you move, and the bear sees or hears you, it may return.  If the bear continues biting you long after you assume a defensive posture it is likely a  predatory attack so fight back vigorously.

Time To Study

Yesterday I finished most of the major packing I wanted done.  I am sure as this final week here progresses I will be adding things to the suitcases but for the most part I am now packed. So it is time to start sudying.  I recieved a handbook and thought I would share some facts with all of you.

King Salmon Alaska is a bush city as it is only accessible by air. The brochure says I should mail all nonperishible foods and save my baggage for frozen and perishable foods.  Well thats not going to happen as I have the supplies for a year with me.  Wonder how much perishables are going to cost.  Anchorage is the largest city in Alaska and contains half of the population   This is where everone goes to get supplies.  Great, as the brochure says it cost around $300 to $500 round trip to Anchorage.

Fifteen miles down the road is the town of Naknek with 575 people (King Salmon has 450). Ten miles down the other direction is Lake Camp where a few cabins and a boat ramp is located.  It is the start of Katmai National Park.  That is the extent of roads.

Brooks Camp is 30 miles by air from town and is the hub for the park and the only way to get there is by float plane.  There is a lodge and campground and in July the park gets a large number of visitors when the bears arrive.  There is a buffet at the lodge and a gift shop that has film, mailers, souvenirs, clothing, candy bars, pop and fishing gear.  The Alaskan History Association sells eduction materials and Katmai logo items.  Prices, they warn, are based on the remoteness of the location.  In other words, expensive.

There are endless opportunities for hiking, boating, fishing, and wildife viewing.  July and August is said to be grand swimming time.  You can join the brown bear club which is like the polar bear club elsewhere and to be a member it is said you must swim once a month while there.  (They are just kidding, I hope)  You can charter an air taxi for a few $100s an hour to go to remote areas of the camp.  Restaraunts offer good food at "bush" prices.  The Brooks Camp buffet is $12 for breakfast, $18 for lunch and $28 for dinner.

Mosquitoes, whit sox, a type of biting fly, and no-seeums are numerous and some people have mild allergic reactions to the white sox bites so they say to bring benedryl.  See I knew there would be things I would pack this week.

I can use my government computer for personal time before 8am and after 5pm and they work 99% of the time.  There are public phones in numerous locations that can be accessed with a calling card so that works.  Hopefully our house will have a phone and internet.  No word on that yet but I am hopeful.

At the end of the brochure was a list of items they suggested to bring and a book list.  Awesome.  I copied the book list for you just in case your interested.

Partial List of Katmai ResourcesThis list is by no means a complete list of all the relevant information related to Katmai, but it is a starting point to basic Katmai knowledge and resources. Up to date information on Katmai National Park and Preserve can always be found from the park website at www.nps.gov/katm with links to some of the following sites.http://www.nature.nps.gov/im/units/swan/
Staying Safe in Bear Country: A Behavioral Based Approach to Reducing Risk. Wild Eye Productions, 2001 Video
Bear Facts The Essentials of Traveling in Bear Country
http://www.fs.fed.us/r10/tongass/forest_facts/safety/bearfacts.htm
Field Guide to the Pacific Salmon (Adopt-a-Stream Foundation) by Adopt-A-Stream Foundation and Robert Steelquist (Paperback - Aug 1992)
Alaska Department of Fish and Game Wildlife Notebook Series Juneau: ADF&G Public Communication Section, 1994.
http://www.adfg.state.ak.us/pubs/notebook/notehome.php
All about Alaska’s Birds can be found at Alaska Bird Observatory
http://www.alaskabird.org/
General Information related to many topics can be found at Alaska Science Forum University of Alaska Fairbanks
http://www.gi.alaska.edu/ScienceForum/text/index.htmlHistory & Culture:Isolated Paradise: An Administrative History of the Katmai and Aniakchak National Park Units by Frank Norris, Anchorage: NPS Alaska Support Office, 1996.
http://www.nps.gov/katm/adhi/adhi.htm
A Naknek Chronicle: Ten Thousand Years in a Land of Lakes and River and Mountains of Fire by Don Dumond, NPS Publication 2005
Tourism in Katmai Country by Frank Norris NPS Publication available online
http://www.cr.nps.gov/history/online_books/katm/index.htm
Building in an Ashen Land: Katmai National Park and Preserve Historic Resource Study by Janet Clemens, Frank Norris. Anchorage: NPS Alaska Support Office, 1990.
http://www.nps.gov/archive/katm/hrs/hrs.htm
Buried Dreams: A Rise and Fall of a Clam Cannery on the Katmai Coast by Katherine Johnston
http://www.cr.nps.gov/history/online_books/katm/clam.pdf
National Park Service Legacy for information regarding the history and legacy of the National Park Service
http://www.nps.gov/legacy/
The National Park Service and the Alaska National Interest Lands Conservation Act of 1980 (Administrative History) by G Frank Williss 1985
http://www.cr.nps.gov/history/online_books/williss/adhib.htm
Alaska Native Heritage Center Web Links – Great links to all cultures in Alaska
http://www.alaskanative.net/25.asp
Looking Both Ways: Interactive Exhibit on the Heritage and Identity of the Alutiiq People of Southern Alaska
http://www.mnh.si.edu/lookingbothways/29 National Park Service Geology & Volcanoes:Alaska Volcano Observatory University of Alaska
http://avo.alaska.edu
Griggs, Robert., (Historic National Geographic Magazine Articles on 1912 Eruption)
…1918 The Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes: an account of the discovery and exploration of the most wonderful volcanic region in the world: National Geographic Magazine, V.33, n.2, pgs 115 – 169
…1922, The Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes: Washington DC, National Geographic Society, 340 p., 3 sheets, scale unknown
…1921, Our Greatest National Monument: The National Geographic Society Completes its Explorations in the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes: National Geographic Magazines, v. 40, n.3, pgs. 219-292
…1917, The Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes: National Geographic Society explorations in the Katmai district of Alaska: National Geographic Magazine, v 31, n 1, pgs 13-68
Alaska’s Deadly Volcano. National Geographic – a video about the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes & Novarupta Volcano 1994
Witness: Firsthand accounts of the largest volcanic eruption in the Twentieth Century by Jeanne Schaaf - Anchorage NPS Lake Clark-Katmai studies center, April 2004
http://www.cr.nps.gov/history/online_books/katm/witness.pdfWilderness:National Wilderness Preservation System - Great Site!
http://wilderness.nps.gov
Wilderness.net non-profit site about wilderness management
www.wilderness.net
Leave No Trace Ethics
www.lnt.org
Wild by Law (Wilderness Video) 52 Min Arthur Carhart Wilderness Center a film about different viewpoints of Wilderness
Arthur Carhart Wilderness Center - http://carhart.wilderness.net/Alaska Geographic Association Bookstore:www.alaskanha.org
A number of high quality guidebooks are available on birds, flowers, mammals, tracks, fish, and general park information. You can obtain a basic library set that could be taken to the field during your trip to greatly enhance a trip to Katmai. The park cannot recommend any certain series or book, so find one
A number of resources can be purchased from the Alaska Geographic Association (AGA) www.alaskanha.org . AGA is a cooperating association with Alaska’s National Parks, whose mission is to support education and interpretation in Alaskan Parks. A portion of the sales directly supports public lands in Alaska.Search the web for the following subjects to find books, DVDs, and other useful information: Alpine Tundra / Boreal Forest•
Brown Bears / Bear Viewing•
Sockeye Salmon•
Rainbow Trout•
Wilderness•
National Historic Landmark – Brooks River District•
Subsistence•
Alaska National Interest Lands Conservation Act (ANILCA)•
Volcanism – Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes, Nov

Ready For Some Serious Packing

Well, I slept late, ate a big breakfast and worked out for an hour.  I am refreshed and ready to pack.  I figure I am going to help keep the post office in business for a little while.  I am going to try to get most everything packed today then I shouldn't have too much left to put in the suitcase by Saturday.  Now I have crucial decisions to make.  For instance, do I pack the skinny jeans?  I have lost 10 1/2 pounds and the normal jeans are feeling a little loose.  But I have five days visiting the family which means five days of too much food.  Where will my will power be?

Should I pack my snow boots as it is still winter in King Salmon or can I get by without them for a few days and just shipped them up there.  Will I need my waders?  Part of Katmai is marsh land.  Should I have mosquito spray right away I hear they are in record numbers up there.  How many coats should I take and what kinds? When you are limited in the number of bags to take and only 50 pounds per bag what gets cut and what stays?  Brain don't fail me now.

Stress, Confusion, Exhaustion

What is it about the female sex that makes us think we are superwoman?  I leave ND in 8 days and for Alaska in 13 days.  I have worked the last 8 days straight, without a day off, in case 8 days straight wasn't clear enough.  I have been packing, preparing and planning for this move along with the everyday chores I normally do.  It is starting to have its effects. 

Yesterday, for example, was the second time I had to take the pets to the vets in a week.  The first time I had my husband there to help and things ran smoothly.  When he asked me if  I needed him there to help me yesterday I said no I got it under control.  Famous last words.  I put the cat in his new kennel, put the leash on Camille and headed for the car.  It is a 30 mile drive to the vets from our house.  In that 30 minutes, Sully my not so adorable cat, vomited three times and pooped in his kennel twice.  I had him in the back of the car which was good because the smell from that distance was causing me to gag.  I get to the vets office, pull Camille, who normally jumps out of the car but knows where she is at and isn't interested in visiting the doctor so soon after the last visit, out of the car.  Go to the back to get Sully.  Realizing I can't take the kennel inside without killing everyone from the smell, I open the door to the kennel and grab the cat.  Now if you were to poop and puke in a confined area I am sure you would stand still.  Not my cat, I picked him up and literallly both of us are covered in crap.  Enough said.

I go in and I am directed to a room.  Camille is shaking from nerves and Sully has seemed to find this enormous amount of energy and I am fighting with him to keep him in my arms.  Then from the back room we hear a rather big dog call out as if Frankenstein were behind the door torturing the animals.  Needless to say this makes Camille feel wonderful and she is now wrapping her leash around my legs and whining while the cat feels heroic and wants to jump out of my arms and run to the rescue.  Finally the doctor walks in.  I am sure I looked great standing there with the dog wrapped around my legs, wrestling with the cat and covered in who knows what.  We talk about the flight to Alaska, and he asks me if I want sedatives for the animals.  YES!!!!  I said I was worried about Camille being in a kennel as she never has been in one and I told him the cat definately needs something as he got car sick on the drive in.  He takes each ones temperatures which Camille sat perfectly still for while the cat did amazing acrobatic moves.  He looks at their ears and thier teeth, fills out a form and  gives me a bottle of pills for each of them for the flight.  Three doses each.  Total time in the office 10 minutes the only thing between yesterdays visit and last Friday's was he took their temperature.  Total pressure on me about 100%.  The doses of seditives was looking pretty good.

I get home, shower, and rush to work where they have had a historic number of people for the lunch rush. I work as a waitress at an Italian restaraunt where I am the only waitress.  By the time I am out of there I am completely exhausted.  Dinner last night was a carmel toffee blizzard from DQ.  At least I crossed something off my list.  Though my husband enjoyed the blizzard it wasn't enough for a meal so I directed him to the frig to the leftovers.  Which he wonderfully heated up for me.

After dinner I began packing.  I boxed up my pictures of the family to mail to myself.  All the while I kept wondering why I am boxing pictures when I have nothing that I know of to put them on.  But I know that when I get there I will really want to see the faces of my wonderful children and the smiling faces of my grandchildren since they will be so far away.  Then I realize that if Craig mails packages and I mail packages at the same time we will have a hard time getting everything home from the post office without a car. Quickly I get up, grab my cell phone and run outside.  Outside is the only place I can get coverage to make outgoing calls.  Of course, it is snowing like crazy.  I call Craig and the only way he can hear me is if I face into the wind and the snow.  We coordinate the mailing of the boxes.  Talk a few more minutes while I am being turned into a snowman, and then hang up. 

By 9:00 I am exhausted and crawl into bed.  I think I was asleep before my head it the pillow.  When the alarm went off this morning I tried to ignore it but the animals know I am suppose to get up and wouldn't leave me alone.  So out of bed I rose and went to the Wii, which normally I am pretty good at working out with.  But the last few days I have been cutting my hour of work out to 50 minutes, then yesterday 45 minutes and this morning just the 20 minutes of yoga.  then I cuddle up in my chair and wondered if I was doing the right thing.  What I need is a nap and some time lost in a book.  So for the rest of my workout I did that-got lost in a book.  No nap in sight yet but I have tomorrow off there is a possibility then.

Last Meals

My daughter asked me where I wanted to go to eat before I left for Alaska since they only have two restaraunts.  I was told one was a smokey, greasy spoon and the other was a greasy spoon only less smokey.  I could not give her an answer right away because I hadn't thought about it but yesterday I kept thinking about it no matter what I was doing so today I have my list and here it is:
    
       Dairy Queen for a carmel toffee blizzard
       Old Chicago for their nachos and hawaiian pizza
       Chili's for babyback ribs
       Culver's for their best cheeseburger
       Pizza Ranch for the chicken and gravy and cactus bread
       My Mom's for her roast beef dinner
       A piece of my sister's great strawberry pie but she hasn't made that in a long time
     

Butterflies have moved in!

Hi, this morning I awoke with a bad case of butterflies.  I have 10 days before we leave here and 15 days before we leave for Alaska.  I spent three plus hours filling out paperwork yesterday for the new position and last night in the mail were more forms to fill out and I also had more forms emailed to me from the regional office.  So I just spent another 1 1/2 hours this morning filling out forms.  Now everything seems very real to me and getting closer faster than I think I can get things done.

 I did get a box of items from the kitchen packed last night.  It was very hard to decide what to bring when it has to fit in one box and one of your favorite things to do is cook.  But I managed to pack enough stuff to get started and even included a couple of cans of soup for Craig and I and some cat and dog food for the animals.  So we won't starve the first night. The big accomplishment was that after closing the box it only weighed 45 pounds.

As I work on my list and while filling out the paperwork I just kept thinking the distance between here and Alaska is getting closer by the minute.  OH MY GOSH!!!!!!

Seriously?

I seem to be getting a lot more things to do as the time is getting closer.  Mostly from other people.  Some I don't mind and others I just look at and say Seriously!  I got my drug test done yesterday, another step closer to starting my job.  This morning the background check paper work arrived.  So instead of trying to get some packing in I'll work on it.  Time used that I don't mind, I can't start work until that is done so I will gladly work on it.  I stopped at the vets yesterday to get the health certificates for the pets.  I just assumed it was a few minutes of them filling out the paperwork using last Fridays physical.  I was told a health certificate was a whole other matter and I will have to be the animals back in for another check up.  Seriously!  Seriously!  Scheduled the appointment for Thursday morning.

I had my eyes checked and though I am not going  into the fact that the eye check-up and one pair of glasses cost $601, (Seriously!) , I was told that the lab was working a little slowly and I may not get my glasses for 14 days,(usually back in 7).  I leave ND in 12 days.  I looked at the woman and said Seriously?  So my glasses may not arrive before I leave which means Ken must pick them up and mail them to me.  When they arrive they have to fit perfectly as there is no optometrist to fit them for me.  Seriously!

Busy, Busy, Busy

Today is full of things to get done.  Starting with the eye doctor, then run a few errands, then its off to the clinic for the drug test.  I have to stop at the vets and pick up the animals health certificate.  Of course it is a 30 minute drive to town for all of this.  Then drive 55 miles to go to work for the rest of the day.  Then I've got to try and get a hike in.  Fix supper.  Try to get a little more packing done.  Along with things like clean the house, do the bills, etc.....  I have to tell you a little panic is starting to settle as I realized I leave here in 12 days.

Training for Alaska

Good Morning!   I am in training for my job in Alaska.   I get up every morning and work out on my Wii for an hour.  Twenty minutes of yoga then 40 minutes of aerobics or 40 minutes of strength training which I alternate daily. Then it is off for a walk with my dog.  This mornings hike was almost 2 miles.  Each day I have been increasing the length of the walks.  After a day of work it is off for another hike.  This morning I feel confident.

Of course, I am walking on asphalt and in King Salmon there is only one paved road.  This morning I walked along the hillside in the tall grass for part of the walk.  I flushed up a pheasant unexpectedly which startled the heck out me.  Of course I jumped.  That will be great if I unexpectedly find a grizzly in my path and I jump.  So much for staying calm. 

I also was not carrying anything.  I am sure there will be equipment that needs to be carried.  I don't have to worry about obsticles on the road but mother nature likes her paths lined with logs, bushes and little unknown surprises.  So I have 18 days left before I leave.  I think I need to change some training habits.  Like wearing my backpack with some weight thrown in for good measure.  I need to find some paths through natural habitat and maybe an incline or two since I will have a few mountains to handle out there.  Shouldn't be a problem between work, packing, planning, and appointments I have to get in before I leave. 

Pet Day

Last night prayers were answered as the congress found a way to compromise and keep the government open.  Good News!!!  So I am still on track to go to Alaska! 

Yesterday was a day to get my animals ready for Alaska.  We took them to the vets where they were given thier updated shots.  Needless to say they were not happy campers. Camille even refused to eat her treat after the shot and she can hardly pass up food.  Little fact, in Alaska dogs are only required to have a Rabies shot.  We also learned that Alaska does not have Lyme disease, heartworm, or fleas.  What a great place for dogs and what a nice surprise for us.  No expense in things like heartworm pills and frontline.  We also learned to take the pets on the plane they needed a health certificate.  The vet said that most airlines require it performed 2 days prior to flying.  Luckily our airline, Alaska Air, require that the health check be done 30 days before flying.  So on Monday I will call the vet to get the certificate as both animals were in perfect health.  I will also get them drugs to make them nice and groggy for the flight or I might have to listen to howling all the way there.

Alaska Air needed reservations for the pets even though they will be flying in baggage.  So my loveable creatures are now booked for thier own space. It is going to cost $100 each to fly to Anchorage, where we have to pick them up because we get into Anchorage at midnight and our flight to King Salmon does not leave until 7:45am.  We will then have to recheck them in the morning and pay another $75 for the short flight to our new home.  Craig and I were planning on sleeping in the airport as I am cheap and didn't want to pay for a hotel for just a few hours. So what an adventure that should be, two humans, a dog and a cat camped out in the airport.  I hope Anchorage Airport is ready for us. 

After the vet, we went to buy kennels for our lovable travel companions.  Passing on air information, kennels need to be hard surfaced, bolted together, and have a grated door.  They must also contain a food and water dish.  We found great kennels made by Remington.  They are made to pass airline regulations.  Only problem is they had the size for Sully but not for Camille.  It is on order and should be here next week.  I have Sully's kennel sitting in the hallway with the door open.  Neither animal is used to kennels.  I am hoping that he will just want to explore and stay inside as cats love that sort of thing.  Sully can spend hours crawling under the covers in cat made tunnels.  So far though, he has only sniffed at it.  Not looking forward to telling them they are going to spend 12 hours in the thing.

Day of Anxious Feelings

Yesterday I got a call to go take my drug test for the job.  Know anybody who gets excited over a drug test?  I did!  It means that I am one step closer to my dream job.  The problem is that  my life is in control by congress.  If the government shuts down today I don't know where that leaves me.  Let's pray that congress will put the joe smoe's of the country first and find a compromise. 

Mailing Packages to Me

Back to the Future

When cell phones first came out I wasn't interested in them at all.  Eventually I saw a reason to have one.  Then they became more than just a phone and everytime I went to renew my contract I had to argue with the saleman about the type of phone I wanted.  I just wanted to make calls.  Now my phone is a camera, video recorder, alarm clock, and a time keeper and oh yea, a phone.  I know my phone does more than that but those are big moves for me.  I even starting texting the last couple years to the amazement of my children.  So now that I moved into the future, I wanted to be sure I could pick up a cell phone on our first day there and keep in touch.  I currently have Sprint but they don't have hardly any coverage in Alaska.  If your in Anchorage it works pretty well but the rest of the state is a dead spot. So I brought up the 14 page yellowpages and looked up the cell phone dealership in King Salmon.  They had one year contracts for just $24.99 a month.  I thought good so far then here is what it includes.  Every call coming into my cell phone was free.  If I call out on my phone and I am in Alaska it will cost me 13 cents a minute.  If I call out on my phone from the lower 48 its only 6 cents a minute.  Now I am quiet.  13 cents a minute for me to make a phone call.  After a minute of silence, she goes.  "I know, we just tell people to get a calling card and call people and tell them to call you back and remember all the calls coming in are free."  While she is saying this I'm thinking no there not they cost me $24.99 a month.   I didn't even ask if they had text messaging as this is about the only way to talk to a few of my boys.  I'm not sure I could afford it, but I doubt its available.  So seems to me that having a cell phone in Alaska isn't a smart move.  Though Alaska's motto is North to the Future, after I leave Anchorage I will be going back in time.

Impatience

Twenty three days left before departure and I can't wait.  I still have a ton of things to do but I would just like to leave. It is hard to concentrate on the mundane tasks when I know adventure lies right around the corner.  I started packing some things last night. It felt good! Todays goal is to answer a few questions about King Salmon.  Only thing is with the three hour time difference I can't get started with phone calls for awhile. I am not good at being patient.

Lists

Yesterday, I spent the day creating lists.  I now have a list of grocery items I would like to have shipped to me to fill my empty Alaskan cubboards.  I have a list of things I am probably going to need for the field work I'll be doing.  I have a list of what I want to take on the plane, if possible and a list of items that will be shipped up asap.  I have a list of who I need to visit before I leave and a time schedule of when I can see them.  Last but not least, I have a list of things I should get done before I leave.  It was the list I started working on first.  The thing is, for every item I got done yesterday I added two or three more things.  Just so you all know, I will be on the plane list finished or not!

Questions, Questions, Questions???????

Sunday mornings we usually sleep  in.  This morning I just laid there while Ken slept, wondering about things in Alaska.

What will my new home look like?  Will it have a view?  How far away from the office is it?  Does the mail arrive at your door or do you have to go to the post office to pick it up.  Is there a post office?  Will we see wildlife life in the yard?

What time does the sun rise?  What is it going to be like to have the sun stay up for so long in the summer and be gone for so long in the winter?  Will we see the northern lights our first night there?  What does a starry night look like?  Will we hear the wolves howl? 

What will the grocery store look like?  Will it have bacon?  My dad told me he heard milk was $11 a gallon could that possibly be true?  What kind of frozen foods will they have when everything has to come in by barge?  How much is our diet going to change?  Will they sell fish, moose and caribou at the store for those of us that don't have a freezer full of food?

Will the taxi be big enough to get Craig, the animals and all our stuff to the new place after we land? Hopefully, it is a pick up.  How many buildings will actually be included in "the town"?  Will we be able to get our new cell phones right away when we get up there so we can talk to everyone?  Will the internet be set up at the house? Will I be able to tell Ken we made it in a timely manner before he sends out the troops to make sure we are safe? 

Are all the government employees housed together?  If they are, will you be able to have a private  life?  When I worked at Devils Tower all the employees were housed together and on your days off you were told to get away from the park to give yourself a break from everyone.  Where will I go to get a break?  Will I be able to get around without getting lost?  Do I need to get an Alaska Drivers License right away when I won't have a car?

These were the things going through my head while Ken slept peacably.  I  can't wait to get all the answers!  If you ever have a question don't be afraid to ask?  I'll try to answer them all, yours and mine.

Brown Bears Mythical or real

I have been backpacking since I was 16.  Back when brown bears were found on coastal habitats and grizzly bears were 100 miles inland.  Now they are known to have the same DNA so the grizzly bears became brown bears.  I have hiked through the northlands of MN, the Black Hills, the Bighorns, Yellowstone numerous times, the Tetons, Glacier National Park several times and the Sierras.  Never have I come across a brown bear.  I have seen plenty of black bears.  I even worked with them in MN where I worked with a professor who was doing a heart study on the black bear population.  We would set traps for the bears and when one was captured we would tranquilize it and do a ultrasound of its heart.  Once we caught a pregnant female and I got to see the cub inside her stomach.  It was totally cool.  Yet I never have had a chance to see a brown bear.

A few years ago we drove up through the Canadian Rockies National Parks on our way to Alaska.  Every quarter of a mile were signs that said beware of wildlife and usually there was a picture of a brown bear on the sign.  Did we see one?  NOPE.  We were in Alaska for 10 days and everywhere we went people would say "you just missed a brown bear".  One night in Juneau we arrived at our camp sight way after dark.  We quickly set up our tent and zonked out for the night.  I awoke to the sound of water splashing.  Not knowing what to expect I crawled out of the tent. We had set up camp four feet from a stream where salmon were running.  Not just one or two but quite a group of salmon.  When I surveyed the rest of the camp site it was surrounded with salmonberry bushes and the berries were large and ripe.  You could not have asked for a better calling card for brown bears.  We spent three nights there.  How many bears did we see?  0!!!!!  After that trip we started saying that brown bears were just mythical creatures.  We had to admit they were real after we finally saw one in Yellowstone last year.  We saw a female and two cubs in a valley and we sat on the hillside just watching the cubs play while the mother ate.  It was Awesome.

Yesterday I read the book "River of Bears" by Tom Walker and Larry Aumiller.  This book talks about the brown bear population on the McNeil River just north of Katmai National Park. The book was about the history of the brown bear in that area.  Like Katmai, the brown bear population there is quite high and also like Katmai they come first over human visitors.  As both places keep human influence at very low levels the bears have gotten use to humans and tend to ignore them.  Which leaves visitors with a chance to see the bears at a very close range.  In the book it describes some of the experiences people have had.  For instance, a couple were able to see a mother nursing three cubs just yards away from them.  After finishing the book I had chills.  I am going to be able to experience these things first hand.

Katmai has over 3,000 brown bears.  The males and subadults should have left their dens by the time I get there.  I wonder how long it will take me to see one when I get there.

Health Care King Salmon Style

When I was interviewed for this position, I was asked if limtited medical services bothered me.  I said no. This morning I searched the medical services in the area on google. King Salmon is a town of 443 people.  The chamber of commerence site listed a mental health clinic, a health clinic, an alcohol counseling center and a physical therapist.  Wanting a  little bit more information I asked google for the number of doctors in King Salmon.  Only the physical therapist came up on the list.  According to the city data site King Salmon has emergency services which have limited highway, airport, and float plane access.  Services are provided by volunteers and a health aide.  I tried one more site to find a list of doctor(s) in King Salmon.  I tried the yellowpages.

King Salmon yellowpages is 14 pages long.  If you were to take all the Anchorage businesses out of it, it would probably be two pages, maybe.  No doctors were listed.  I'm not sure who runs the health center, maybe the volunteers.

Todays plan make appointments to see all physicians so I know I'm set when I get there.  Buy a great first aid kit.

Just a side note: The town can't be too bad, no lawyers were listed either.